Method of making shoes.



A. 1. WAITE. METHOD OF MAKING SHOES. APPLICATION HLED JULY I4 IQ IS.

Patented "191. 13, 19 17.

, UNITED STATES PATENT onFI cE.

ARTHUR .T. WAITE, O11 BINGHAMTON, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOB Ti UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPOIILATION OF NEW JERSEY.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patente a rea is, 191 "1.

Application filed July 14, 1816; Serial No. 109,303.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, Autumn J. Warm, a

. methods of making shoes and. particularly stitch-down shoes which have the margin of the upper turned outwardly to form an attaching fiangewhich liesiover and is sewed to thetop face of the n i rgin of the sole. Care has to be exercised i making this type of shoe to shape the upper into an angular formation between the outturned flange and the body portion of the upper in order to make the shoe lit the foot and to obtain a' pleasing appearance particularly around the stapling through the upper materials and innersole' as close as possible to the side of the last, and then allowing the said upper materials to dry in their .acquireihshape as described in United States Letters Patent Nos. 1,117,086 and 1,117,087, granted on apilications of A. H. lrenzel, Nov. 10, 1914.

his is a. rapid system having a low labor cost and producing a marketable play shoe. An object of. this invention is to improve upon this and similar procedures so .asto approximate the better shape obtained from too and heel molding. In one of its aspects the'invention consists in assembling an upper and a stili'encipreviously molded to fit the outer face of the heel part of a last and to present an outturncd flange and using the stiffener as a form to which to shape the heel portion of the upper to produce an out-' turned sole attaching flange thereon and a shaped relation to the stiliener flange.

method has the advantage that the stiffener welt crease, and securing the upper in said. This can be produced, as an article of manufacture, by the use of knowi machinery, with any degree of perfection ofshape adapting it to serve as a form over which to n'ioldthe upper, and then can be assembled with an upper, as forcxample bet een the upper and its lining and. ona last with or without a sole or innersole. The relatively pliable upper, with or without moistening, can then be shaped to the form of the stiffener to fit into the angle between the body and the outturned flange of the stifi'e ier and'to present an outturned flange. The upper may be secured in its shaped relaton to the molded stiffener, as for example by staples driven through the upper and st ,fi'ener flanges and the inner sole, if one is p: 'esent, and located in the angle with thei bars extending lengthwise of the flange. It is customary to complete the shoe by app? ying a well; in the angle or welt crease and s1 itching the sole on, through the welt, the fin iges and the projccting margin of the inne rsole and sole, and

1 a welt so applied permanintly binds the upper in molded relation to ;he stiffener in the angle or crease.

The invention will now be more fully explained in connection wil h the accompany; ing drawings and will thei be pointed out 1. the claims.

Figure 1 of the drawings shows'an upper for a stitolndown shoe anl a stiffener molded to conform to the sha )e of an end pore tion of a last and present ainoutturned flange.

Fig. 2 shows the upper and stiifener as sembled on a. last which is provided with an innersole.

Fig. 3 shows the upper being molded tothe shape of the body and flange of the stiffener and into the angle thereof to produce a welt crease, and shows th: upper being fastened in molded'a-elation t the stiffener by 1. staple.

Fig. 4 showsa portion of a completed shoe made by the practice of this invention;

The shoe upper is shown as indicated at 2 and the lining at 4 waile 5 indicates a molded heel stifiiener cc uiprising a body portion shaped like the Sl( .e faces ofthe heel portion of a last, and a flange 6 turned outwardly from the lower ed; to of the body and forming therewith an acute angle. A last is indicated at 6 in Fig. 2 and has an innersole secured. to its tread l'aee hy lZH'h'h' that are later to he pulled out. A tool 10 may conveniently he used to assist in eonformin the upper to the shape of the molded stillener and fastening the upper in that shape.

In practising the invention lhe stillener is molded to give it the eharaeteristies referred to and adapt it to h' used as a form upon or over \vhieh to shape the upper as to vertical.

rontour, the lengthwise eontour ol' the upper being determined by the last upon whieh the stiliener and upper are prel'erahly assemhled as in Fig. 2. In the proeedure illustrated in the drawings, the upper is pressed into the angle of the still'ener and shaped to the adjaeent hody aml flange l'aees, as shown in Fig. 3, by a suitahle tool that may he eonsidered as eomplenu-ntal to the stifl'ener in shaping or molding the upper. When this toolis used it is applied progressively around the end of the shoe. The shaping might he performed hy emhraeing the entire end portion of the shoe atone time, and it will he u nderstood that the invention is notlimited in this respeet. It may he here noted that the invention is herein deserihed partieularly with refereneeto the heel end of the. shoe. its applieation to the toe endheing readily understood from this explanation.

b'ullieient permanenee ol' the. shape given to the upper in eonfornultion to the contour of the heel slifl'ener may he ohtained in various ways, as for example by pressure of suflieient degree or applied through a suflieienttime to prevent undesirable reaction or hy the use of adhesive, or fasteners. I )refer to employ staples arranged with their )ars extending lengthwise ofthe welt crease and driven in the-angle through the upper and the stifl'ener flange. Suitahle-staples 9 ran advantageously he driven through the forming tool 10 hy known driving meehanism-and elenehed n a tahle 1;. The permanenee of shape of the upper in eont'ormity to the molded still'ener may he. further insured by the, applieation of a hinder, herein shown as a welt l-l- 'altaeh'ed hy a sole at tau-hing seam 15. A hinder may under some eolulit-io ns he used without staplino Having explained the nature ol" the invention and deserihed how it may he practised, I elaim as new and desiretoyseeure hy Letters latent of the United Stan-3" 'l. 'lhat improvement in methods of making shoes which eomprises assei'nhling on a last an upper and a molded heel stiffener having an outturned flange; and shaping the upper to prodlu'e a sole attaching flange for in said erease and having their hars extending lengthwise ol' the erease.

'lhal improvement in methods of making shoes whieh eomprises assemhling a molded heel stillener having an outlurned flange helween an upper and a lining, using the outer fare and "the outlurned flange of the stifl'ener as a form over which to shape the upperand seeuring the upper in shaped relation in the angle between the flange and said 'l'are of the sliflenel'.

l. 'lhat improvement in methods of making shoes whieh eomprises assembling a molded heel stifl'ener having an outturned flange hetween an upper and a lining, using the outer fare and the outturned flange of the still ener as a form over which to shape the upper, and stitching a welt in position to hold the margin of'the upper snugly in the angle between the flange and said face of the still'ener.

.3. That improvement in methods of mak in; shoes \vhieh eomprises assembling a molded heel stifl'ener having an outturned flange and an upper togethe and using the st-ill'ener as a form to \vhirh to shape the heel portion of the upper to produce an outturned flange and a welt erease, and eonlining the upper in surh shaped relation to the stifl'eueix i. That improvement in methods of-making shoes which eomprises molding a stillener to eonform to the shape -of an end portion of a last and present an outturned sole altarhing flange, assemhling said stifl'ener with a relatively pliahle upper, using the stifl'ener as a form to \\'lll('ll lo shape the upper to present an outturned sole attaching flange overlying the flange of the stiffener and a welt crease lying in the angle. hetween the hody and the flange of the stiffener. and (-:onfining the upper in said angle.

In testimony whereof I- have signed my,

name to this speeilieation.

ARTHUR J. \VAITE. 

